The most effective way to make Dulce de Leche is to place a container of sweetened condensed milk in a pressure cooker for 40 minutes on the highest pressure setting, then letting it come to room temperature without releasing the steam. The milk and sugar within the can will caramelise perfectly every time. And no, there is no danger of explosion. To make a flavoured version of dulce de letche use powdered milk and replace some or all of the water with juice, in this case, banana juice. Tier one (you must… Read More
First tier (you must use) 500 grams of white sugar 500 grams corn syrup or glucose (to prevent crystallisation) 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar 200 grams egg white OR 100 grams egg white powder, 50 grams orange flower water and 50 grams water.*** Third tier (optional) chopped white chocolate (cold from the refrigerator) roasted pecan carefully filtered to remove dust clear flavouring of your choice Method: In a large mixing bowl put dried egg whites, orange flower water, water and stir to mix. Leave to hydrate for 30 minutes to one hour. Or,… Read More
Orange Flower Water Frappe, the recipe is here.
(recipe follows) _ Japan has slowly tortured all the affection I had for Italian food out of me by reducing it to PASTA. _ A: Let’s go out! B: Where? A: Italian. B: (Pasta!) ___ If you’re out looking for a restaurant _ A: I’m hungry. Oh look, Italian! B: (Pasta) __ Even when you’re at a Japanese restaurant _ A: Hey, look! They have tuna on the menu. B: (It’s served over pasta! ) _ None of it is any good. It’s almost always overcooked spaghetti with watered down tomato sauce containing… Read More
(recipe follows) Department stores here build restaurants into the top stories and rent space to bakeries, restaurant flagships, prepared food shops, high end grocers and butchers at the basement level. Cut out into the floor plan is a space yielded each week to regional foods from prefectures around Japan. In one year you can travel the full length of Japan’s archapelgio by taking weekly trips to the department store. A few weeks ago Tokushima showcased fish, sweets, fruits, and enormous hocks of ham from which a long-lived butcher with a hefty hand sliced… Read More
Living near Tokyo means Seoul is a day trip. I was in Seoul last May to visit a friend for hanami, do a little shopping, and eat. The most prestigious department store in South Korea is a massive 12 story chunk of architecture named Lotte. Their food department is kinetic, laid out to show how much you’re spending and pulse you through the whole floor. Each pristine display has a salesperson fitted to the task. Toothsome young ladies in Confectionary, delicate women in Fruits, dishy old broads in Kim-Chi — I confess, I completely… Read More
I started blogging 23 days ago. In those first days I found a cooking challenge for Whoopie. Sorry, Whoopie Pies. I had started to work out a formula for a salmon roulade based biscuit with a creme fraiche herbed filling when someone mentioned on my blog that she’d love to eat a white chocolate Whoopie Pie. (Game on.) The initial flavour pairing was pecan, coconut, white chocolate, but coconut in the biscuit morphed it into a macaroon — there is no ‘Whoopie’ in macaroon. Coconut milk in the batter lacked “Whoo”. And… Read More
After four months of silently bubbling I opened a new jar of Sauerkraut today. Crisp. Fresh. Sweet in the background, sour notes up front. I had a feeling the kraut would be like white wine cleaning the pallet between bites, so I sliced then skewered a chicken breast and put the yakitori in the broiler. I made a quick sauce to baste them just before finishing. I had boiled daikon to go with it (not the best choice, a green salad would have been better).
I’ve been having all kinds of fun with my ISI whip cream dispenser. Infusing milk (and later rum) with cacao essence from chocolate nibs was definitely a highlight. Here I’ve charged grapes. I filled up the dispenser with grapes, added two jiggers of cognac, topped it off with water and charged it with two nitrous oxide cartridges. A couple of hours later I released the pressure. Inside each grape were bubbles of carbon dioxide. The bowl was fizzing — food with sound! Biting into one is akin to pop rocks, but less… Read More
I received a bilingual Indian cookbook about seven years ago, English and Japanese — I ordered every single ingredient. Two years later I was attending cooking school in India. The first day I had to study in the library, which was packed with Asian, European, African, and Indian faces — every one of them were Indian — their culinary traditions as varied and in harmony with each other. In southern India Dosa is ubiquitous and varied like the faces in India. It is made with urad dal and rice, or semolina, or with an… Read More
(recipe follows) I don’t waste food. I keep the scraps and cuttings — those little bit of trim you might easily discard — and find a way to use them. Yesterday I made a lentil soup using pork bones to flavour the stock. After I strained the bones out from the soup, I pulled off the little meat that was left and along with the tips — not tops — of the carrot and celery, minced the whole fine and added a ladle of very thick béchamel and folded in a bit… Read More
When I eat beef I want the flavour of beef, not side dishes, not sauce, not aromatics. These are pan seared on the highest heat — timed three minutes each side with salt and pepper.** There’s balsamic vinegar and horseradish on the table, but not for my plate. About fois gras, how do you like it? I prefer to put a piece of wax parchment on a small skillet and heat slices of it with a dribble of cognac. It hovers between a solid and liquid unaffected by any other flavours in… Read More