Last Sunday I needed something colorful and elegant to go with dinner. I wanted the soft flavor of cauliflower seasoned lightly with garlic in a cream base. I contrasted it with a green broccoli soup flavored with thyme and tarragon. Both vegetables have an affinity for garlic, thyme, tarragon, so combining them in the same bowl enhanced each soup while creating variation in each spoonful. I used onion in the roux for both to give them a common flavor base. To keep it pale white, I ommited anything with color such as… Read More
(recipe follows) We accept the shape of the meat we purchase rarely considering that we can mould it into objects, create designs, even fuse meats together. Here is a chicken breast. Pound it with something heavy into a thin sheet of meat. From there we add color through vegetables, sauce, spices, powders, other meats — and then roll it, securing it in waxed paper and aluminum foil. The easiest way to cook a rolled chicken breast (also called Chicken Roulade) is to bake it in a water bath. Wrap the roulade in… Read More
A picture is worth a thousand words — and has no calories. Enjoy.
Making soup stock is opera! To those looking onto the stage the whole productions seems a long, boring tragedy, but for those on stage it’s craft and art — it’s one of my favorite things to do. I make stock in 20 liter batches. A couple of months ago I replenished my beef stock, Espagnole, and demi-glace — two full days of work. Today I took out a liter of the beef stock for soup and all is right in the world. The stock is bold, flavorful, and filled with body —… Read More