Last Sunday I needed something colorful and elegant to go with dinner. I wanted the soft flavor of cauliflower seasoned lightly with garlic in a cream base. I contrasted it with a green broccoli soup flavored with thyme and tarragon. Both vegetables have an affinity for garlic, thyme, tarragon, so combining them in the same bowl enhanced each soup while creating variation in each spoonful. I used onion in the roux for both to give them a common flavor base. To keep it pale white, I ommited anything with color such as… Read More
Goes very well with a quenelle, a filo shell and salad. Find the recipe for the Cauliflower Soup here and for the Broccoli soup here.
A picture is worth a thousand words — and has no calories. Enjoy.
Making soup stock is opera! To those looking onto the stage the whole productions seems a long, boring tragedy, but for those on stage it’s craft and art — it’s one of my favorite things to do. I make stock in 20 liter batches. A couple of months ago I replenished my beef stock, Espagnole, and demi-glace — two full days of work. Today I took out a liter of the beef stock for soup and all is right in the world. The stock is bold, flavorful, and filled with body —… Read More
(recipe follows) When you have trimmings of raw meat, or a lone chicken breast or thigh, or fish that has to be cooked or thrown out, use them: Puree them with cream and seasonings — add a reserved egg white or yolk when you have one on hand — and poach this new mixture called mousseline, forcemeat, quenelle. You can serve them in soup as I did here, or as a main dish with a sauce. The ratio is 2:1 meat:cream. The more cream, the lighter the product. I have stock I… Read More
(recipe follows) Department stores here build restaurants into the top stories and rent space to bakeries, restaurant flagships, prepared food shops, high end grocers and butchers at the basement level. Cut out into the floor plan is a space yielded each week to regional foods from prefectures around Japan. In one year you can travel the full length of Japan’s archapelgio by taking weekly trips to the department store. A few weeks ago Tokushima showcased fish, sweets, fruits, and enormous hocks of ham from which a long-lived butcher with a hefty hand sliced… Read More
(recipe follows) I really enjoy reading other peoples blogs. Last week I came across this post which reminded of the soups my aunts would make when I was boy. They were immigrants from the Azores and we all lived in a little community in Artesia. The ingredients depended on what grew in the garden, how much money was left after expenses, and how many people were staying. So salted cod was on my mind. Yesterday I walked by the Korean section of the market — packaged dried cod. My morning ritual is to… Read More