Decadence: Guineafowl

Imagine the greatest joys in your lives. Think of getting married, having a baby, your first kiss — whatever it is, imagine that bliss as taste, flavor, mouthfeel, satiety. That is the best way to describe this dinner: It’s one of the best things I’ve ever made. The recipe was inspired by Careme’s 1836 work. In short, I deboned the guinea fowl, removed the breast, divided it in two, then cut it almost alway through 12 times each and placed slices of foie gras between. I placed them back into the bird,… Read More

Dinner at my home

Chicken roulade, rape, broccoli and cauliflower soups, spinach salad in a filo cyland

Recipes coming for all this — and desserts. Link to the soup. Link to the chicken. Link to the filo shell (coming)  

Lentil Soups

(recipe follows) Department stores here build restaurants into the top stories and rent space to bakeries, restaurant flagships, prepared food shops, high end grocers and butchers at the basement level. Cut out into the floor plan is a space yielded each week to regional foods from prefectures around Japan. In one year you can travel the full length of Japan’s archapelgio by taking weekly trips to the department store. A few weeks ago Tokushima showcased fish, sweets, fruits, and enormous hocks of ham from which a long-lived butcher with a hefty hand sliced… Read More

Whoopie Pies a Prologue: White Chocolate Milk

white chocolate milk from cacao nibs, whole milk, and whip cream dispenser.

I started blogging 23 days ago. In those first days I found a cooking challenge for Whoopie. Sorry, Whoopie Pies. I had started to work out a formula for a salmon roulade based biscuit with a creme fraiche herbed filling when someone mentioned on my blog that she’d love to eat a white chocolate Whoopie Pie. (Game on.) The initial flavour pairing was pecan, coconut, white chocolate, but coconut in the biscuit morphed it into a macaroon — there is no ‘Whoopie’ in macaroon. Coconut milk in the batter lacked “Whoo”. And… Read More

Filet mignon

filet mignon wish asparagus, fois gras, and salad

When I eat beef I want the flavour of beef, not side dishes, not sauce, not aromatics. These are pan seared on the highest heat — timed three minutes each side with salt and pepper.** There’s balsamic vinegar and horseradish on the table, but not for my plate. About fois gras, how do you like it? I prefer to put a piece of wax parchment on a small skillet and heat slices of it with a dribble of cognac. It hovers between a solid and liquid unaffected by any other flavours in… Read More

Sweet as you like, apple pie unlike any you know: Apple Pie Your Way

Foodies can be elitist. If your macaroon — or pasta, or x, or y, or z — isn’t exactly as so, it doesn’t count; so follow me they say, mine is The Way, the only way that’s right. That approach to food keeps people out of the kitchen. I’m going to show you what I mean by teaching you a different way to make Apple Pie Your Way. (The recipe is at the very bottom of this post.) But first, what is Apple Pie? The universal ingredients are apples and crust, which I’ll call top… Read More