Decadence: Guineafowl

Imagine the greatest joys in your lives. Think of getting married, having a baby, your first kiss — whatever it is, imagine that bliss as taste, flavor, mouthfeel, satiety. That is the best way to describe this dinner: It’s one of the best things I’ve ever made. The recipe was inspired by Careme’s 1836 work. In short, I deboned the guinea fowl, removed the breast, divided it in two, then cut it almost alway through 12 times each and placed slices of foie gras between. I placed them back into the bird,… Read More

Dinner at my home

Chicken roulade, rape, broccoli and cauliflower soups, spinach salad in a filo cyland

Recipes coming for all this — and desserts. Link to the soup. Link to the chicken. Link to the filo shell (coming)  

Lentil Soups

(recipe follows) Department stores here build restaurants into the top stories and rent space to bakeries, restaurant flagships, prepared food shops, high end grocers and butchers at the basement level. Cut out into the floor plan is a space yielded each week to regional foods from prefectures around Japan. In one year you can travel the full length of Japan’s archapelgio by taking weekly trips to the department store. A few weeks ago Tokushima showcased fish, sweets, fruits, and enormous hocks of ham from which a long-lived butcher with a hefty hand sliced… Read More

Whoopie Pies a Prologue: White Chocolate Milk

white chocolate milk from cacao nibs, whole milk, and whip cream dispenser.

I started blogging 23 days ago. In those first days I found a cooking challenge for Whoopie. Sorry, Whoopie Pies. I had started to work out a formula for a salmon roulade based biscuit with a creme fraiche herbed filling when someone mentioned on my blog that she’d love to eat a white chocolate Whoopie Pie. (Game on.) The initial flavour pairing was pecan, coconut, white chocolate, but coconut in the biscuit morphed it into a macaroon — there is no ‘Whoopie’ in macaroon. Coconut milk in the batter lacked “Whoo”. And… Read More

Filet mignon

filet mignon wish asparagus, fois gras, and salad

When I eat beef I want the flavour of beef, not side dishes, not sauce, not aromatics. These are pan seared on the highest heat — timed three minutes each side with salt and pepper.** There’s balsamic vinegar and horseradish on the table, but not for my plate. About fois gras, how do you like it? I prefer to put a piece of wax parchment on a small skillet and heat slices of it with a dribble of cognac. It hovers between a solid and liquid unaffected by any other flavours in… Read More

A sense memory: Portuguese Cod Soup

I recall eating soups in huge, deep bowls with a piece of rustic bread floating on top. To stretch they added kale, cabbage, and lots of potatoes, but it was digging in to find the fish and pieces of hard boiled egg I remember best.

(recipe follows) I really enjoy reading other peoples blogs. Last week I came across this post which reminded of the soups my aunts would make when I was boy. They were immigrants from the Azores and we all lived in a little community in Artesia. The ingredients depended on what grew in the garden, how much money was left after expenses, and how many people were staying. So salted cod was on my mind. Yesterday I walked by the Korean section of the market — packaged dried cod. My morning ritual is to… Read More

Play with your food! — Dosa Your Way

I poured Dosa batter into a waffle iron and set it to high. Ten minutes later -- beep, beep, beep -- and it was on a plate. Coconut chutney is usually served much, much thinner, but I wanted to see how the thicker texture would fill the gaps.

I wanted something different for lunch, but my refrigerator is filled with leftovers. To add variety I changed the approach to something typical by using different tools: I used an American waffle maker to make an Indian dosa (link to recipe) — and it was perfect. Crisp on the outside, it gave way with a loud, satisfying crunch. Inside was the flavour of urad dal. If I had added a thinner coconut chutney, it might have made this particular Dosa soft, muted the urad dal flavour, and required a knife and fork.

Play with your food! — Lasagne In A Pan Your Way

I was hungry after work. In keeping with my ten minute rule I boiled water, rolled a sheet of lasagne, boiled it and assembled it on a small skillet with a drizzle of basil infused olive oil. I'm out of béchamel, so I layered with mascarpone and vegetarian Bolognese. It took four minutes on the stove to make it hot -- onto the plate with a little Marinara. 12 minutes.

I wanted something light and quick for dinner, high protein, balanced carbohydrate. I wanted chew, so I put in soy “meat” balls. Since it was vegetarian I wanted to maximise flavour and coated the pan with a drizzle of basil infused olive oil. (link to tutorial for the sauce)

mung bean pancakes, bindaettok, and skills every cook should know

Lunch in ten minutes Bindaetteok with home made kim-chi.

(The recipe is at the bottom of this post.) As I mentioned in my Quiche Epiphany, I contracted vegetarianism when I was 14. Unchecked, it grew into full blown veganism by 21. International travel cured me: It’s hard to be picky when your abroad — even less so way back when, but I still love vegetarian and vegan foods. My guide when I was 14 was Recipes For A Small Planet. The only foods I had the skill to prepare were bean burgers — for years I ate bean burgers not knowing… Read More

Sweet as you like, apple pie unlike any you know: Apple Pie Your Way

Foodies can be elitist. If your macaroon — or pasta, or x, or y, or z — isn’t exactly as so, it doesn’t count; so follow me they say, mine is The Way, the only way that’s right. That approach to food keeps people out of the kitchen. I’m going to show you what I mean by teaching you a different way to make Apple Pie Your Way. (The recipe is at the very bottom of this post.) But first, what is Apple Pie? The universal ingredients are apples and crust, which I’ll call top… Read More

A week of ten minute recipes

boiled daikon, first step

I’m new to blogging. To get my bearings I’ve been read, read, reading blogs. A constant theme in the food-o-sphere is ‘quick and easy’. Myself, I prefer slow and complicated; but delicious, inexpensive, healthful food is easy to prepare at home and so I’ve decided to do a series of posts in which I make meals in no more than 10 minutes — preparation is required. I spent two hours preparing last Friday and no more than 10 minutes each day throughout the week. (Links to my recipes will follow in the… Read More

The Quiche Epiphany

apple and quince pie

Today’s assignment is to describe the genesis of our blogs, so I need to tell you about my Quiche Epiphany. For very specific reasons I was cooking for myself in grade school. When I was about fourteen my father had a quadruple bypass. That visible impact of diet on health concurred with my health classes and long story short, I became a vegetarian and stayed so until about twenty. Being raised in Los Angeles health food was always a visible part of many lifestyles around me and felt, at the time, more… Read More